The Nose, Yosemite: Givin'er / by Drew Smith

I randomly ran into a friend and climbing partner Jack Cramer from last fall in Mammoth, CA. We shared the idea that we both had ambitions to climb the Nose in a day on El Capitan in Yosemite. After climbing around Mammoth for a day we decided now was a perfect time to head to the Valley for a go at the Nose. This has been a dream of mine and I'm sure his as-well since the first day I set eyes on El Capitan.  

We arrived to Yosemite and climbed up to pitch 11 of The Nose, planning on getting this section of the climb dialed before doing the whole route in a day, it went well taking us 5 hours. A friend who had done this route before told us to multiply that time by 4 and that gives you an idea of how long it will take to do the complete route in a day.

We took a rest day then went to sleep anxious to awake and begin climbing at 2:30 am. We made it to pitch 11, in 4 hrs, 20 min, excited to see we were moving faster than the previous day. The sky was grey and we felt rain drops, we talked of bailing due to the possibility of rain but after waiting for a short time we decided to push on to see if the conditions changed. On pitch 18 the sky was still grey and the feeling of rain was present. Jack and I made the decision to take our chances and go for the top! This is Jack on the King Swing a pendulum you have to do on a part of the route. 

Jack leading the Great Roof pitch

We topped out that evening after climbing for 17 hrs, 30 min!