Update from the Center of the Universe: Yosemite Valley, CA by Drew Smith

Mason Earle onsighting Crankcase (5.12+), Indian Creek, UT.

Brette Harrington on the send of Optimator (5.13-), Indian Creek, UT.

Caro North finding a rest on Big Guy (5.11-), Indian Creek, UT.

Sam Magro on Captain Hook (7a), Viñales, Cuba.

Viñales, Cuba

In Cuba locales who picked us up from a climb insisted on us joining them for rum and fried fish.

YOSAR team 2016

Dave Weintraub

Ken Kreis

Jane Jackson

Alexa Flower

Josh Huckaby and our supervisor Philip Johnson

Nicky Bunn

Jim Reynolds

Nick Sullens

Yosemite SAR team on a carry out through the mist of Vernal Falls.

58 year old Alan Carne still free climbs El Cap!

Eric Bissell on Mr. Midwest (5.13), Yosemite Valley, CA.

Keenan Takahashi hucking big on Chuck (V11)

Josie McKee exploding on the Palisades Traverse.

Lauren Levanovich beggining to quest on Border Country (5.12)

My pops telling us we are doing it right here at the SAR site.

Josie McKee charging on our Nose in a day romp!

Nick Sullens gettin a new hairdo.

Cheers to these hot summer days!

Cam King melting in the sun while we continue the miles of technical ridge traversing on the Full Palisades Traverse (VI 5.9), Sierra Nevada, CA.

Pearl Johnson going for a heal hook send.

This is how we roll.

I had the privilege of marrying Patrick Hodge and Sara Aranda on top of the Incredible Hulk, High Sierra, CA.

Eric Bissell doing what he does best, rock climbing really good! Lost Arrow Spire Direct, Yosemite Valley, CA.

Giving praise!

Is this life we live real? I feel pretty dang lucky. by Drew Smith

Sam Hennessey rappelling after climbing Responsible Family Men WI5 and the two pitches above it possible 5.9 to the top, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

Sam Hennessey on the 2nd rock pitch above Responsible Family Men. This pitch looks pretty chill but once on it, it feels vertical and has delicate moves. Sam only managed to get two pieces of gear in 50m.

My brother Garret on the East Rosebud Plateau heading for the Chamonix Couloir after we climbed California Ice WI4. We linked the two objectives up car - car in 13.5hrs.

Garret getting ready to lead the first pitch of California Ice WI4, East Rosebud, MT.

Lindsay Fixmer on Dancing with the Hippo WI6, Cooke City, MT. Due to warm brittle conditions Lindsay didn't feel comfortable and lowered off before the ice curtain. I decided to give it a go and was pretty stoked to take it to the top leading my hardest ice climb.

Hailey Hosken on Parachute Adams V1, Madison River, MT.

Shey Kiester enjoying the open road, MT.

Amalia hard at work in her Kitchen, La Ticla, Mexico.

Ten years ago Ber and I spent 4 months traveling around Baja Mexico, we reunited for a Mainland Mexico adventure in February. Here Ber rinses off after a morning surf session, Nexpa, Mexico.

Huahua Mexico, Bra

Chilling with the boys La Ticla, Mexico.

Bud Miller following the 2nd pitch of Zack Attack WI5 5.8, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

Andy Anderson on The Good-Looking One WI5, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

Kim Hall scratching and squeezing her way up The Thrill is Gone M4, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

My brother Mic and sister in-law Emily getting reclaimed wood for some of True North Woodworks upcoming projects, Sieben Livestock, MT.

Maddie reminding me that life is pretty freakin sweet.

Andy Anderson having an impressive lead on Maple Moon WI5, Maple Canyon, Utah.

Emma Horton racing around on her skinny skis.

Shey Kiester on Responsible Family Men WI5, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

These are the times I'll remember.

Visiting old friends.

The longest job I've ever had, my favorite boss and one of my best friends... Jim.

My pops toons giving me chills.

My Mother inspiring me with her creativity and endless energy.

(Stay True)

Lindsay Fixmer on the traverse into Responsible Family Men.

Ben Hoiness showing me some gems in Montana.

I love this shit

Once again this guy Andy Anderson on Solstice WI4, Hyalite Canyon, MT.

Justin Willis going for a bold on-sight of an unclimbed unnamed line, Cooke City, MT. 

Justin Willis and Ben Hoiness searching for ice, Cooke City, MT.

Junk show

Yosemite Valley, CA and beyond: Some YOSAR life by Drew Smith

Dave Weintraub

Bud Miller

Alix Morris

Josie McKee

Ken Kreis

Buck Yedor

Cheyne Lempe

Looking out of the back of a Chinook Helicopter. In the High Sierra of California, we searched for a lost backpacker for 4 days. The backpacker was found with two broken legs, alive after 9 days missing without food.

Dreaming on mountain tops in Alaska

Alaskan Bush Pilot

Aurora Borealis, Alaska

Buck Yedor doing some shallow water bouldering

Sasha  Digiulian on the Lost Arrow Spire Tip

Very impressive to watch, Keenan Takahashi work his 3 year project. A couple weeks after this shot he sent, Dominated V13.

REM team, (Rapid Extrication Module) on a fire in Northern Washington.

Shayna Brown has some wicked eyes and crushes, Polygrip 5.11+

Kelsey Ball, doing some picking on her porch.

Lauren Levanovich making the crux move on, "Swedin-Ringle" 5.12-

Cooper Means and Tait Anderson, enjoy the warmth of the wood-stove in Tait's Vanagon.  

Andrea McElwain, cruises the streets of, Yosemite Valley.

My brother Garret made a visit to Yosemite and I let him drive ole blue.

Joe Crawford, running around on a rainy day.

Sam Feuerborn on Tricks are for Kids 13b

Kelly Halpin feeding her chickens

Mash Alexander in his zone

Alwyne Butler and Diana Gri, hanging out making me laugh.

Buck Yedor and his cat Jim

Savannah Cummins finding her inner child and climbing trees.

Miranda Oakley on a new route, I along with Chris Kalman put up on Spring Lake Wall, Sequoia National Park, CA.

Chris Kalman and Miranda Oakley, soaking wet, climbing through the storm.

Pearle Johnson, swinging

Smokey Sunset, El Capitan

SAR family dinner

Randy Puro, sending the Seam V10

Josie McKee on the Evolution Traverse

Brette Harrington on Cosmic Debris 5.13b

Yosemite, CA: Turning dreams into reality. by Drew Smith

Eight of us complete the Valley SAR team. The ones who I use to be terrified of are now becoming some of my closest friends. This is Bud Miller telling me how it was back in the good ole days.

Buck Yedor enjoying a cup of coffee on his porch, giving us tips on how to free climb El Capitan.

Josie Mckee scrolling through the guide book planning her next secret mission.

Alix Morris cant hide her stoke from all the climbs she wants to do.

Dave Weintraub getting sucked into the SAR site vortex

Cheyne Lempe and his wife Jessica Lempe cooking another amazing meal.

Ken Kreis leading the team while on an El Cap rescue. That completes this seasons crew.

Jim Reynolds isn't on the SAR team but is way more bad ass than all of us. 

Dani Julien, spreading her arms after taking the big pendulum swing 3000ft up El Cap, on the Porch Swing. 

Alan North, 60 years old and he's hard to keep up with.

Quarter Dome basking in the sun.

Phil Wesseler leading the pancake flake on a NIAD mission.

Its amazing to be part of such a calm and competent crew. Briefing on an El Cap SAR. 

Ken Kreis preparing anchors for a rescue.

Bud Miller cruising the wide pitch on "The Rostrum".

Dave Weintraub preparing for a big wall.

Alix Morris floating, "Afterburner 11c".

Buck Yedor working the moves on an unknown boulder problem.

Greg Loniewski stemming it out on, "The Rostrum"

Keo on, "Total Way-ist 11b"

Dave Weintraub on a rainy day, enjoying the alcove swing.

Keo and Whitney stoked on dinner.

Alix Morris focused and determined.

Josie Mckee getting ready to take the plunge.

Swapping leads with Bud Miller on, "The Great Escape"

Levi Yardleg, North Ridge, Mt. Conness.

Cant beat our schedule.

Bridalveil Falls

Billy Brown showing us how its done, climbing at The Jailhouse.

Cam King stoked!

I'll take this any day of the week

Red Rocks, NV and Red River Gorge, KY: Cant get enough Red by Drew Smith

Rob Duncan leading the first pitch of Drifting, 11c, Red Rocks, NV

Rob leading the last pitch of Drifting, pitch 5, 11c, after finishing this climb we did Challenger, 4 pitch, 10d, great link up!

Jane Horth on Paralyzed, 11b, Red Rocks, NV

Jane stretching out on Paralyzed

Savannah Cummins mid clip on The Prophet, 12b, Red Rocks, NV

Patrick Bailey getting rowdy on Reticent, 12c, Bob Marley Crag, Red River Gorge, KY

Tomer Oren, Ultra Perm, 13d, Bob Marley Crag, Red River Gorge, KY

Pretty cool crag dog Henry

Unknown climber on something Hard!

Mike Holland, Ethics Police, 11d, Solar Collector, Red River Gorge, KY
Playing ball on one of those rainy days

Camp cookie getting er done

Gerard Soldevilla, Forearm Follies, 12b, Military Wall, Red River Gorge, KY

Savannah Cummins, Another Doug Reed Route, 11b, Military Wall, Red River Gorge, KY

Roger Bess, Funkadelic, 10d, Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge, KY

Gerard Soldevila on Eye of the Needle, 11b, Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge, KY

Mike Holland, Goodstone, 10d, Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge, KY

Ivan Mattenberger, Eye of the Needle, 11b, Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge, KY

Gerard Soldevila, Prime Directive, 11b, Funk Rock City, Red River Gorge, KY

Natures Lines

Walking around on rainy days

Thats It!

Utah, Nevada, California: Things I saw, Things I did by Drew Smith

Caileen and Keo, Space Station, Joshua Tree, CA
Jack Cramer topping out Inti Watana-Resolution Arete, Red Rocks, NV

Jack Cramer, after climbing Touchstone Wall, Zion, UT

Jack Cramer, Wide Pitch, Shunes Buttress, Zion, UT

Jack Cramer, Splitter Pitch 6 of Shunes Buttress, Zion, UT

Rian Downs, Evening Run, UT

Jack Cramer and Savannah Cummins trying to stay warm, Mario World, UT

Max Milburn, Underworld, UT

Savannah Cummins, Evening Light

Todd Perkins, Hurricave, UT

Kris Dancs, Red Rocks, NV


Going Somewhere?

Branca Franco, Joshua Tree, CA

Branca Franco, Joshua Tree, CA

Keo, Joshua Tree, CA

Tipping the hat to Sunsets

Caileen Brandt, Joshua Tree, CA

Campfire Toons

Kind Larsen, trying to figure out whats more interesting, my big camera or the hot fire?

Rian Downs, St. George, UT

Sarah Heath, coming out of the dark, UT

Finishing up Winter by Drew Smith

Dale Apgar on Santa Claus Pillar WI5
Whipper = Screamer

Ice was getting thin around Ouray but this was fat, Savannah Cummins does some roadside laps.

This was my last day in Ouray, we approached on dirt, climbed in t-shirts and it was time for me to go.

Savannah, Max Milburn and I ventured into a canyon near Cedar City, Utah. We found a magical frozen waterfall called "Hidden Haven", WI3-4

Jack Cramer doing some finger strength training

Colorado, Dr. Toboggan: FA? Dr. Toboggan, 5.9, M5, Tasty Talks Buttress, Camp Bird Road by Drew Smith

Jack and I headed up to this buttress on 02/11/2015. The buttress has "Tasty Talks" on it, and is down road or river from Bird Brain Boulevard on the dark/left side of Camp Bird Road outside of Ouray, CO. An old sling was found at the base of this route on a small tree, and it was the only evidence that somebody may have already climbed this route. We climbed 6 pitches, with difficulty up to 5.9, M5, naming the route "Dr. Toboggan". We rappelled the route off of trees leaving slings. This may have been one of the best routes I climbed during my time in Ouray. The rock quality was enjoyable with mostly solid rock and cool pocket features. If anyone has already climbed this route please let me know. 

Colorado, North San Juan: Choss/Ice and Adventures by Drew Smith

Jack looks ahead at whats to come on one of our adventures

Jack on some choss

Savannah Cummins belays Lance Sullins on Stairway to Heaven, WI4

Another Good Day

Dolgio Nergui venturing into the unknown

Dolgio Nergui on the unknown

Love I guess

Anna Pfaff approaching Horsetail Falls

Anna Pfaff on Horsetail Falls, WI4-5

Anna topping out the first pitch

Savannah Cummins got hit in the face by falling ice, no bueno!

Savannah spitting blood, and leading pitch 2 of Horsetail Falls

Anna taking a risk, poking her head around the belay

Lance Sullins taking off on pitch 2, Ames Ice Hose, WI5 M6, due to good ice conditions the route was probably WI4

North San Juan Ice/Mixed, CO: This is happening around here. by Drew Smith

Jack Cramer, Kennedy's Gully, WI4

Rappelling Kennedy's Gully

Jack Cramer, Dukes of Hazard, WI5-6 M6

The spin drift was horrible!

Toby Grohne, Bird Brain Boulevard, WI5 M6

Toby gearing up, getting closer to the top of Bird Brain Boulevard.

Chance Traube, Senator Gulch, WI3-4

Jack Cramer, Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5

Jack Cramer on an M6? to the right of Killer Pillar and Choppo's Chimney

Lance Sullins, Skylight, WI4+ M4-5

Lance Sullins, The Ribbon, WI4

Ouray/Bozeman: Its time I study up. "Why all the focusing on happiness, when it is so clearly the suffering that forms us"-Steve House by Drew Smith

Tucker Cunningham on "The Dribbles" WI4, Hyalite Canyon

John Sugden on some scrappy climb left of "G1" up Hyalite Canyon

My brother Garret and I sloughed through the snow most of the day to do one pitch on "Twin Falls" WI3, in Hyalite Canyon before the sun began to set. We cussed, bickered, and laughed, another great day.

Toby Grohne and I got on this wild ride

Toby following the first pitch of Bridal Veil Falls

Toby taking a proud line, leading the second pitch of Bridal Veil Falls

Good adventures are always had with Jack Cramer, this is him leading the first pitch of "Goodnight Irene" M5-6, Ouray.

This is a shot Jack got of me leading one of the chossy pitches on Goodnight Irene. Pretty sure I was shaking like Elvis right there!

This is where we bailed, we will be back for you Irene.

Mark Genito on "Feeding The Cat" WI3, Hyalite Canyon

Luke Lydiard on "Dream Team" WI4 M4/5, Ouray Ice Park

McKenzie Long on "Horsetail Falls" WI4-5, just outside of Ouray

Savannah Cummins gives Jared Drapala a catch on a dry tooling route up "Camp Bird Road", Ouray.

Unknown climber on "Silverpick Falls" WI5, Telluride

Montana: Family Lives Within by Drew Smith

Since returning from El Potrero Chico, Mexico, life has been good. Some much needed time with family was had and now I reminisce about the love, laughter, and Montana. I didn't get photos of everyone or near enough photos to express how much they all mean to me but here are a few.

This Photo was taken up Hyalite Canyon, the two big ice formations are Twin Falls. It was fun to spend some time in Bozeman with my brother Garret and when people asked me where I was from I could say Montana and actually be in Montana.

This is my middle brother Garret leading his first ice climb, the guy is fearless.

This is my oldest brother Mic skiing some pow, he is also fearless.

One of my cousins Makahl soaking up the fluffy goodness.

Mic full speed ahead

Garret and his girlfriend Andrea at some hotsprings

My cousin Andrew outside of his house which is built around an old bus.

El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Duermo Poco, Sueño Mucho by Drew Smith

A party climbing "Off The Couch"

Savannah on Satori, 10c

Savannah following the crux, 5.12 pitch on the classic 23 pitch, 2300 ft. route "Time Wave Zero"

Ridge to the summit of "Time Wave Zero"

We simul-rappeled "Time Wave Zero" with one 60m rope and 11 rappels. 

Andrew Wexler on Surfer Rosa, 5.13


El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Viva la Vida by Drew Smith

Savannah following the first pitch of Super Nova, 8 pitches, 5.11

Pitch 2, Super Nova

What a view from the last pitch of Super Nova

Good Market on Tuesdays and Fridays

Savannah on Blue Fin, 5.12. It was impressive to watch Savannah getting on hard routes only 5 months after getting surgery on her shoulder from a torn labrum.

Julia MacKenzie on British Invasion, 5.12

Julia climbs hard but needs a bigger backpack

El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Climbing+Limestone+Tacos=Good living by Drew Smith

One of the benefits of living in a van with everything I own is the lack of responsibility and the freedom to make impulse decisions. Around the middle of November a good friend of mine Savannah asked me to go on a climbing trip to Mexico with her. I really had no good excuse not to go and within a week we were gone! I had heard of this place for years (El Potrero Chico), stories of multi-pitch sport climbing on beautiful limestone, cheap tacos and good living.

The first multi-pitch climb we did was Snot Girlz

The fog and palm trees on top of mountains were mystical

Hitching a ride from Hidalgo to El Potrero Chico